Killburn Diaries

THE BIG TRIP!
2009 Return
Preparation:
Went to visit the boat in Northport in early May.  Took tarp off and loaded weather gear, books, electronics, etc.  Boat is a mess as everything is piled in the middle of the cabin with a plastic tarp over it to ensure nothing gets wet for whatever reason.  It must have gotten really hot under the tarp as the tar around the windows ran a bit!  Spent only an hour as I was really on the way to Minnesota to see family.  I did try to see if you could get into the port lazarrette after the surgery as the heat exchanger needs to be replaced.  Absolutely no go, so that pretty much has to be jobbed out.  Also, the hull is badly stained from the canals and I don’t see how I am going to do that either….  Guess for the first time… someone is going to work on my boat!
June 23-25
Arrived in early evening after 750 mile trip from NY.  Had to stop in Canada to get my eyes scanned for security purposes.  Loooonnnnng trip!  But, I did get  the headsail and main rigged that night so there would be some room in the cabin for me to sleep.  Stayed up till about 1:00 am just moving things as I could not stand the clutter.
Next day was spent arranging and cleaning.  Microwave will not fit where I thought it would, but the alternative location is much better under the chart table.  It is tucked way back and can be used for pilot berth storage when it is not cooking.  There is no water in the yard where they store boats, so cleaning will have to wait.
Re-set the rigging and located all the gear.  The boat is pretty much ready to go in the water.  Even the fridge is going and I plan to leave food in it.  Talked to the Boatyard and they have installed the heat exchanger and put in a new fuel filter.  Hope this is the fix that works!  Am a bit worried that they don’t know about the airlock issue with this engine, but they said no problem.  Left for Minneapolis early Friday morning.
June 30
Long drive from Minneapolis to Northport.  Arrived at 9:45 as there was traffic south of the bridge.  Too many “fudge eaters” as they are called around here, going from spot to spot, stopping and going with no idea there are other cars on the road!  Got the rest of the stuff on board and am ready to be put in tomorrow morning.  Have arranged to be the first boat, so I can check out the engine, clean the cockpit and topsides and then go to South Manitou.
July 1
Northport boatyard to South Manitou.  Things did not work out as planned.  I waited at the boat for the yard to show and finally went to find them.  Someone moved me and with coffee breaks, I did not get into the water till after 11:00.  To make things even worse… when the got my boat to the lift, there was a boat already in is waiting for insurance inspection….  They waited a while for the assayer to show and then just launched my boat down a ramp! Never thought that would happen, but it all worked out, which was the last thing that did for the rest of the day.  First, the motor would not start as the mechanic had not bled the injectors after putting the fuel filter on.  He came and did that and when it started…  it took about five minutes before the engine overheated.   The mechanic came back, but it was clear he really did not know what he was doing.  After fooling around, he announced the problem was a faulty heat exchanger and it would have to be taken out.  I kept asking if he knew about the air lock issue with these engines, but he was set on his solution.  I persuaded him to at least bypass the water heater first in case it was a blockage there.  Engine still overheated.  He then told me his boss had his whole day scheduled and I would have to talk to him….  I said I would work on it if that was ok with the yard.  They said yes.  So, I drained the antifreeze, hooked a garden hose to the hose from the thermostat to the exhaust manifold and turned it on.  NO BLOCKAGE! This meant the heat exchanger was fine.  I then started the engine and it did not over heat!  Hooked the water heater back up and still not overheating.  I then went the yard folks and told them it was an airlock, but they were dubious.  Told them you need to fill the antifreeze from the bottom of the engine up and they looked at me like I was crazy.  They did let me borrow their truck so I could go to the hardware store in town to buy one of those drill pumps, and they let me sort through their fittings to get a ¼” x 1inch nipple with a cap.  I filled the engine and everything looked great.  But the boatyard is closing and I am in a dock that will need help getting out of…. Oh well, got out on my own and started out around 5:00 pm.  Once I was underway… the temp started climbing!  The hell with it.  I am gone. This will have to wait for another day.  After all, this is a sailboat!
Hah!  Temp never went above normal and after an hour or so, I am convinced the problem is solved.  Now to sail to South Manitou Island!  Problem is of course that it is way late to be leaving, but what the heck.  Always best to start out on a trip way late, in the rain with 4-5 foot waves and forecast for building conditions!  This was mostly a beam run, with speeds staying around 8+ on the GPS, so it was great fun!  Made it so South Manitou about 11:30 and anchored.  Great harbor!  4+ waves and wind outside, but smooth and quiet within.  Anchored in about 30 feet of water…  50 feet from shore.  Tired, but feeling good about the boat and myself.
July 2
South Manitou to Kewaunee.  Got up at 7:00 and was underway by 7:30.  Anchor was pretty much just laying on the bottom as the bay is so protected, I think the chain kept me in place.  Headsail up and heading out with lots of chop and wind gusts….  Looks like a long day with lots of attending to the sails.  Waves are 3-5 feet, with lots of 5 footers.  But, I am moving about 7+, so the trip will be shorter!
About 1:00 pm, I am in the middle of the lake with no shore in sight.  I really like when this happens.  Problem is the motor is on, because true wind is 2-4 and I am now slopping along in 1-2 foot swells.  The chop and slop from earlier went away as soon as the water was more than 200 feet deep.  It is currently  over 700 feet deep according to the charts (depth finder gives up around 500-600 feet).  There is such a difference between motoring and sailing in terms of how the boat moves.  Sails keep her steady.  Motor pushes her into the waves and we wobble.
Winds died about 20 miles out, so it was motor-sailing the rest of way.  About 30 boats out fishing off the Kewaunee breakwater and it looks like an obstacle course on radar.  Chart looks weird for the entry, but I remember it from my youth, so no problem.  Easy docking at marina as Anders and Anna are there to help.  5:00 pm.
July 4
Day trip to Algoma. Motored up to Algoma as winds were on the nose.  A bit tricky getting into the harbor as there is really only one small area of dock where I won’t go aground.  Nice meal and walk about as Algoma is historic to the area and well presented.  Kids talked on and on about a “bachelor pad” that was above a incredible antique store.  Sailed and then motored into the Kewaunee harbor around 4:30.  No fireworks as hardly any small towns can afford anything these days.
July 5
Kewaunee to South Manitou.  Geneva, Inga and Justin left around 4:00 am and apparently, John and Frazer arrived around 3:30 (they slept in their van).  Things started moving around 9:00am with Anders and Anna off loading while John and Frazer came aboard.  Said our good byes and off to South Manitou.  Sailed and motored as we had to make time.  Nice weather.  Arrived around 9:30 just in time to enjoy the sunset. Many boats in the cove this time, so we had to maneuver.  Beautiful night with no bugs and a full moon.
July 6
South Manitou to Northport.  Left at 10:15. Mostly sailing today in light winds with a beam run.  Beautiful views .  It didn’t get choppy till we were rounding the point into Traverse Bay.  Noticed a trawler in close to shore, but figured they were locals.  Nope.  Soon got a mayday saying they had hit a reef. Could still move, but severe vibration and when asked for location, they were unable to give it!  Got them on the radio and had them follow me in, which they kind of did.  They were also short on fuel….  Sigh.  They made it ok, but totaled both very large props.  No damage to their hull.  Was a father, son and grandfather.  They were complaining the reef was not marked with a bouy…. When I told them this was not a navigation area and the lake was full of reefs, they seemed surprised.  Crazy.
Arrived at 5:45. Got bike out at Northport marina and got car.  Mary and I went to Traverse City to pick up Mike and upon return, Mary took off for home hoping to get 2-3 hours under her belt before sleep.   Nice meal in town and then to bed.
July 7
Northport to Beaver Island.  Left at 10:30 to building wind and seas.  Good news is the wind allows for excellent sailing close hauled, doing 7-8.  Seas build from 2-3 to 3-4 to 4-6, with some big ones washing the up on the vee birth port.  Seal needs work again, but cannot even think of opening it in these seas!  End up draping the mainsail cover over the vee birth so whatever comes in runs to the bilge.  John gets pretty sick to the point he is considering bailing if we get near land.  Single tack all the way the Beaver Island, but do have a reef in the main and shortened jib, with no reduction in speed.  Good sail, but tiring with the knocking about. Winds die in late afternoon and we end up motoring the last mile into the harbor (5:30).  The marina that can take our depth is chancy and we need careful direction in by the manager.  No problems, except the power boat owner on the port side made a big show of putting out bumpers so we would not hit him.  This was not a problem of course, but it was interesting that he put the bumpers about 6 feet in the air off the rail of his boat when the Mighty Quinn is only 3 feet off the water!  He later bragged that he had come from the same place we had, but got there 3 hours earlier.  When I commented back that the ride had to have been pretty bumpy….  He called us “rock stars” and went into the cabin.  Think we will steer clear of this one…..
Nice walk on the island to Nina’s restraint, which was a bit swanky, but had good food and service.  Back to boat to sleep well.
July 8
Beaver Island to Mackinac Island.  No wind! Well, one thing that has not changed is how bad the weather forecasts are out here!  Lots of sun and waves less than a foot means we get some maintenance done along the way.  Mike worked on the vee birth hatch with we hope some success. Frazer went up the mast to the first spreader to attach the new rig for the courtesy flags.  I have been fooling around with this for years with poor results, so here is hoping I get it right this time!  He used the ATN climbing rig to get up, but was swinging so wildly coming down that we thought he was going to break a rib, so I lowered him with the mainsail halyard.  Looks great with the Canadian and LCYC flags flying!  Mike started making the “rounds” whipping lines (I save these for him) and got all except the bumper lines.  He has the knack and when he does them… they stay.  The wind and speed  gauges still are hard to read due to the moisture that built up in them (lcd’s are hard to see).  Hope the sun will cook them today.
Just before going under the Mackinac Bridge, we developed two problems.  First is the inverter.  It stopped working and after reading the manual, I discovered I would have to remove the whole unit to open it up to get to the fuses!  I spent at least 4 hours installing the damn thing and I spent a couple hours making it pretty when I was getting the boat ready….   Once it was out, it became too obvious that the unit was totaled.  It had 12, 15 amp fuses and 8 of them were fried.   Then, John says: “hey look at this weird bite mark on the inside of my bicep!  Yup, it is the classic “bulls eye.”   So, on the phone to clinics and doctors to see where he can be seen so he can get some doxi-cycline….  Am told there is a clinic on Mackinac Island that can see him next day.  They say there is a “machine dispenser” for drugs, which is the first I have ever heard of such a thing!  We make a quick stop in St. Ignace so I can pick up a small inverter (gotta have phones and computer!).  Then off to Mackinac Island.  We get just about the last available slip and do a walkabout after a good pizza in town.   No cars here at all.  Just bikes and horse drawn wagons, with most shops selling sweets (fudge).  The tourists look like they have been indulging on these foods for most of their lives, and I am feeling almost skinny! (almost).    While the crew does go for an ice cream, I decide to stick with my own calorie vice (scotch).  I try to trade burgees at the local yacht club, but am informed by the waiter (all service staff are dressed in starch whites), that “they” don’t bother with burgee trading.  Don’t think much sailing goes on at this club.  Rather, it is all about wealth.
The harbor is noisy till around 10:00 pm with ferries moving people off and on the island by the score.  Good night’s sleep with a 7:00 am wake up.
July 9
We walk about while John goes to the doctor.  Turns out they only give him ONE pill and there is no such thing as a prescription machine!  He has to go to St. Ignace  to fill the prescription….  The ferry is fast, but it turns out it is faster for us to motor over, so off we go.  John heads for pharmacy, while Frazer and I dash to bakery, which turns out to be twice as far as last year because the old bakery burned down.  Get to the boat and head off.  Oh yeah, John’s cell phone charging connection is giving him fits and has finally broke.  I have my old phone with and give it to him.  He has to get Verizon to activate the phone.  He tries to do this as we leave port and discovers they won’t do it.  Oh yeah, John reads the prescription instructions that tell him the drug will make him nauseous and susceptible to sunburn (Dr. Finn had informed him of this already, but he has discounted this expert advice for some reason).   John comes to the conclusion just after we pass the north side of Mackinac Island that he has to go home….  He cannot be out of contact (no phone as Verizon won’t even let him forward his calls to Frazier’s phone), with a possible land sale on the North Shore property in the offing.  So, turn around and go back again to St. Ignace to drop him off on the dock in a “drive by” manner.   Really sorry to see him go, but sometimes life gets in the way.
We are now, finally, under way and it is 12:30, so we won’t be able to make it to False Detour, which is the inlet to the northern parts of Huron.  We motor for Detour instead, but the wind is directly on the nose and we do not have time to tack if we are to make it before dark.   Waves build and get sloppy about half-way along, which means wet decks and closed ports, but this is ok because the wind is cold and we get long pants, fleeces and jackets on.  Came across two fishing nets along the way, which is fun finding the ends in chop.  A  third was in the shipping channel as we came into Detour!  Arrived at marina at 8:00.  Got 10 gallons of fuel and tucked in for the night after a spaghetti dinner with salad and fixings on board.  Weather looks like it is going to turn tomorrow with Tstorms.   Want to get an early start.  Hope we can sail!
July 10
Detour to Gore Bay.  Left Detour at 7:30 with wind on the nose going into the big lake.  Sails up just before False Detour and sailing the rest of the way.  Wind really picked up, and we moved east keeping between 8-9, while steadily reducing sail.  Thought we would be staying either in Meldrum or Bayfield Bay, but the wind is just too good.  Plus, Bayfield would have been far to exposed with winds like this!  Final 10-15 miles was under a fraction of the jib, keeping in the high 8s.  Had to motor into the bay as wind was on nose and no room to tack.  Anchored off docks with other boats and settled in for the night at about 6:00.  By the way, the views were beautiful, with amazing winds given we were protected from the big lake by Manitoulan Island!  Really good to not be on the lake!  Weather forecast is for thunderstorms tonight with high winds continuing tomorrow.
July 11
Gore Bay to Benjamin Islands (South Benjamin).  Lots of rain, thunder and lightning last night, but morning is sunny.  Glad we were in a sheltered bay with other boats!   Went to dock and emptied head.  Went into town for breakfast and bought some bilge and holding tank chemicals.  Also went grocery shopping (food is expensive up here).
Left at 11:24 with lots of sun and a bit of wind.  It really picked up as we got out about 5-8 miles and we began to look for the best shelter up in the islands.  South Benjamin looked the most promising as the weather forecast was “severe wind warnings” with gusts to 50…..  Dropped hook  among 3-4 other boats, but was not happy with location given the increasing winds.  Waves were running up to 4 feet as we came in and it was supposed to get worse.  Next attempt to set the hook dragged, with the third try better, but still feel too exposed.  Winds are building and it is too windy in the bay to take the dinghy to shore.  Two of the boats left in the afternoon and we quickly moved up into their spot, which was comforting.  Just after setting the hook, I recorded a 43 knot wind gust at the mast! Water in the bay was being picked up in little tornados, making for moving rainbows as they moved across the bay!  Waves are now breaking over the reef, sending spray into our bay!  Probably the weirdest thing was the small, 24 foot sailboat with two old guys with white beards that came in during the afternoon.  They were towing a canoe…. And anchored barely within the bay, in the most windy and wavy area possible.  They set their hook from the stern and walked it forward and then disappeared below, not seen again that day.  They remained there despite the fact they could easily have anchored in calm waters with full wind protection, given their shoal draft.  I would not have wanted to spend the night in the bucking bronco that was their boat!   I am a bit worried about the batteries as I am not getting the charging voltage from the collectors that I expect.  Have turned on the wind generator as well, but voltage is staying in the 12s.  Know I won’t sleep well tonight cause the wind is howling.
July 12
Benjamin’s to Heywood Island.    Got the crew up at 6:15 (cloudy now, but it was clear last night) and were underway at 6:30.  House batteries were completely flat, with not enough juice to run the gauges.  Dedicated engine battery was just fine, so no trouble getting underway.  Will have to stop in Little Current for a new battery.  Got to Little Current to discover the storm had been even worse than we thought!  Whole docks had been ripped lose and the swing bridge had been struck by lightning, frying the electronics.  So we scuttled into a town dock opening just as a big power boat went out to wait for the bridge (they must have not turned on the radio).  Now, we discover that it is Sunday…. And nothing is open!  But, we also find there is a local yacht club and go to find their Commodore to trade burgees.  He is willing and we pick up a “LCYC” burgee (Little Current Yacht Club)!  Good luck is with us as he points out the owners of the local marina out on a backhoe, trying to replace a section of one of their docks that pulled lose during the storm, stranding about a dozen boats from shore.  They happily opened up and sold me a new battery.  I got the biggest, thinking it was my size only to discover it was too big for the battery box.  So, out with the moto-tool to carve the offending edge of the box off and now I can carry an additional 30 amp hours of charge.  Truth be told, I really did not want to lug the battery back the ¼ mile and bother those good folks, but the solution is a good one and it is good to see proper voltage again.
Bridge was repaired for the 2:00 opening and we all flooded out, going east with about 10 boats.  We were only going another 8 miles to Heywood, as this is a good launching point for morning with us on the safe side of the bridge (it only opens on the hour).  Dropped the hook in a nice, protected bay on the West end of Heywood and spent the rest of the afternoon gazing out at stunning scenery and watching the antics of the usual late comers trying to find a position.  Nice night with clear skies again, but the weather forecast is another day of “severe wind warnings,” building thru the day.  We will get up early tomorrow.
July 13.
Heywood to Tobermory.  Up at 6:00 and underway much to the surprise and even consternation of the crew!  Winds are light, but we still go around the West side of Heywood as there are shoals to the East.  Ghosting east with winds building a bit till we make the turn south in Georgian bay.  Nice sailing on the beam, with building wind and seas that require sail reduction.  Sailed to the East side of Flower Pot island to stay out of the reefs and saw really cool rock formations and shoreline.  Motored the last 3 miles as wind was on the nose into Tobermory around 3:30.  Came in with the big car ferry and Frazier stopped dead in his track while putting out the bumpers when the whole bow of the ferry opened like a gigantic mouth as it came into the dock!  The ferry has a ramp within and disgorges its load of cars, trucks, logging trucks, etc. right out the bow.  Got a slip right in town, which looked great till we discovered the people in a huge power boat across from us were determined to entertain the whole town with speakers mounted on the foredeck of this monstrosity!  Sigh.  Went to pay for slip and informed them of the credit card theft from here last year.  They had not heard about it!  Showers were good and we went grocery shopping again.  This is a real tourist stop, with outfitting for camping on the islands and diving.  It is much smaller than Ely, MN, but has some of the same ambiance.   Nice dinner in the same hotel we ate last time and returned to the boat to happily discover the music was gone!  Walked about and then tucked in for the night, intending to leave early tomorrow as the weather is a bit worrying.  Very cold tonight and discover too late the Frazier does not know about the spare blanket.  Am also informed by the crew that they insist on using the local washroom before taking off….  Mutiny is in the offing, so the Captain graciously agrees to leave at 7:00.
July 14,
Tobermory to Elgin.  Left at 7:00 and motored through the Hurd Channel, which cut miles off the route we came in on last year (wind and waves and fog were way to much to attempt this passage last year).  Set sail as soon as we could, but the wind died, so again with the motor.  As soon as we were motoring,  and the headsail is in, the wind picks up, so turn off the motor and out with the jib.  Again the wind dies and we turn on the motor only to have it happen again….  BUT, this time when we turn off the motor… there is a whistling sound below, and I run down to find the pressure cap on the motor blowing steam!  DAMN!  Filled the engine with a liter of anti-freeze and started it up.  Temp went down normal, but the wind is rising, so at this time, I have not been able to really test the motor for overheating.  One good thing is that the hot water heater water is not too hot, which was a sure sign last year the problem was big.  Am hoping that the problem was that I did not get enough fluid in it while filling it back in Northport when first starting out.  The problem is the filler cap is not the highest point in the cooling system, so checking it is really not an option as it is configured….   I really have to do something about this.  For the time being, this means removing a petcock off the top of the thermostat housing and checking for level and I will have to do this.  Weather forecast is still “severe wind warning” but we are sailing at about 6 on a beam reach with full main and jib.  “Auto” is doing all the work as the crew read and I write.  Hard to keep this rigorous pace up!
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July 15
Down day in Port Elgin.  I needed to get a small funnel to fill the engine with anti-freeze, and the winds were predicted to be out of the south and building with late afternoon thunderstorms.  Got the bike out and rode around town as well as up the coast road a bit.  Went to a small fair they held near the marina and stocked up on books for the reading addict (Frazer).  He chews through at least one book a day and probably 2-3 today!  He is somewhat of an eclectic reader, but does seem to favor the same trash books I do!  We also picked up some good vegetables and fruit being sold from a farm stand at the fair.  Didn’t really know until we rested this day that we were tired!  I put about a pint of anti-freeze in the engine, which is a bit reassuring.   Weather forecast was correct about the building winds from the south, but we only got a smattering of rain.  Tomorrow’s forecast is winds quartering from the SW in the morning to the NW, which is right where we want them.  We do have three port options depending on the weather, but one is much preferred (Bayfield).   Going for an early start, so everyone is showered and ready to go.
July 15
Port Elgin to Bayfield.  Got off the dock at 7:00 am, but the wind is still from the south, but very light.  So we motor and motor and motor until around noon when the wind gets enough to our side that we can close-haul sail.  Lots of sun, but it is cool and comfortable.  One of our alternative destinations is Goodrich, which is 12 miles short of Bayfield and it looks like at least an 11 hour day to reach Bayfield.  But, the more we read about Goodrich… the more willing we are to push on!  Turns out this is the place with the salt mine that is 1800 feet under Lake Huron.  Salt blows off the storage piles on to your deck as you are tied to the dock and there is heavy traffic, along with a 2 foot surge with winds from the west!  And this is all from the sailing book that tends to see the “sunny” side of every port!!!  So, on to Bayfield even though we are getting tired, but the winds are good.    We stumbled a bit coming in as there is some confusing landscape that might sucker you into a nearby river, but we saw this in plenty of time.  Yeah, it is true that you should trust the charts sometimes even over your eyes!
Called ahead for a port side tie and was promised one.  Only problem once we got there was the guy tending the dock did not know port……   and all that was left was a starboard tie, with a guy standing on his big powerboat right next to the dock (upwind) smoking a big cigar.  Persuaded the attendant that we would stay on the gas dock that night.   He was not too happy about it at first, but when I pointed out it was already 7:15 and we were leaving early, he calmed down.
A dining routine has developed on the boat that had me cooking, Mike making the salad, and Frazer cleaning up.  I noticed that Frazer was very quick to volunteer tonight to make the salad… and asked why.  Turns out he had finally figured out that cleaning up is the worst of the chores!   Cooking was out as I know where everything is, and salad making is probably the best job!  Some good natured grumbling from Mike that night as it “seemed” that I needed just about every pot, pan, bowl, etc. to make the meal!  I might be willing to admit that I could have been a bit more conservative, but hey! I had been doing the second worst (or best) job.
Oh, yeah…. The files showed up a few miles out of Bayfield….  Good news is they were no where near as bad as the swarms that invaded the boat here last year!  But, they did bite and we quickly got out the fly swatters.  I think Mike and I were particularly frightened as this was a “déjà vu” nightmare!  Probably a hundred dead flies later, we got to port and they of course went away.
July 17.
Bayfield to Port Huron.  Got off to a 7:15 start because I forgot I had to check the engine for anti-freeze (one pint).  Guess I am sort of hoping it will go away, but that is probably not going to happen.  Weather forecast is for favorable winds from the WNW, but not for us…  Winds are on the nose and it is motor city again.  Caught a breeze for an hour rounding the point, and I hoped it would go further west, but it went the other way and we are motoring again.
Things began to turn our way around noon, with steadily rising winds.  It is all sail now and we are moving right along with a following sea that is knocking us around a bit.  Forecast was for less than 1 meter waves, but that was wrong as well with some 4 footers.  This is sailing!  And it is a fitting end to our Lake Huron trip.  We picked up the shipping channel about 3 miles outside Port Huron as there are shallows about that make me nervous in 4 foot swells.  Down to portion of the jib and still are making 8.  Got to the St. Clair river and what a shock!  The GPS showed we were accelerating and we topped out at 12.5 with the motor going around 1400 rpm.  The land is going by way too fast and we virtually flew under the international bridge with me trying to figure out how I would shoot into the river  before we went by!  But everything went well and even the drawbridge went up on the half-hour as we approached.  One thing of note was the gargantuan tri-marran  that partially blocked the navigation channel as it was simply too big to fit anywhere.  It is clearly here for the Huron-Mac, which begins next week.   Arrived at the River Marina and found our designated slip had been given to someone else.  After a wait, we got another.  Just tied up and making the mandatory trip to the “head,” when I am hailed by the new crew (Robert and Thea) who have just arrived.  Mike will be taking their car back and this is great timing as he would like to break the 10 hour drive over two days.  It is Great to see Bob and Thea, but it is more than a bit sad to lose Mike.  After sailing with this guy for this year and last, it is amazing to see how different we are, but how much alike as well.  Mike won’t hesitate to make his opinion heard and stand behind it.   I of course love to engage in “discourse” and I think we make a great “foil” for each other.  Add to this the worldly experience and the wonderful sense of humor that sits just under the surface and I can say he is a joy to have on board.  I am certain I won’t have a dull moment.  Plus, he has his own way of trimming sails and I love to learn new things (even if I eventually decide that mine is better).    By the way, don’t get in the way if he loses his cap somewhere below!
We switched gear and then went grocery shopping, which turned into a real chore as there is no store near the marina and the guy at the dock gave us bad instructions.  Then back to the boat and farewell to Mike.
Bob and stayed with the boat, unpacking and getting to know Frazer.  By the time we got back, he had “scooped out” the town and led us off to a fair that was going on across the river.  We then ate at a brewpub, and visited the Port Huron Yacht club, with the objective of exchanging burgees.  Turns out they already had our burgee prominently displayed, and I could have stayed there for free (they gladly offered reciprocity and even said we could stay for days), which means I could have saved a couple hundred dollars between this year and the last if I had only knew….   And, they were great hosts as well. Dang!
Back to the boat to turn in, but I don’t set the alarm as we only have 50 miles to go tomorrow and with the current running so strong in that direction, I figure this could even be a short day.  Frazer will be leaving us tomorrow and there is phone calls back and forth trying to arrange it.  We find a marina that is only a mile away from where his bus will be and of course that is our destination.  Problem is his phone goes dead just as his dad says something like “oh oh, this might not work…”
July 18
Port Huron to Bayview Yacht Club.  Left around 10:00 am after getting 14 gallons of fuel.  Current is fast, but not as fast as coming in with us doing around 8-9.  Pretty uneventful until we get to Lake St. Clair, where as the books warn the lake can get up in a hurry.  Have to reel in the jib to about 70% and we are still heeling to the rail.  Waves are running about 3 and lots of chop with some rain.  The lake is only about 20 miles, but is a relief to get off as we can see at least 3 other places ahead where it is raining.  I made an appointment at Keane’s Marina with a great deal of trepidation.  My somewhat fuzzy memory is this is the place I went aground last year despite assurances there was plenty of water….  Turns out my memory is pretty good, because when we arrive just after 5:00 pm, I can see the spot they wanted to put me is almost exactly where I went aground!  Problem is they close at 5:00 and there is NO ONE around.  I try to make it in, hoping the water is higher this year (it is), but not high enough as I gently go aground in exactly the same place as last year!  Now, I made a particular point of questioning the person on the phone regarding depth and had been assured they just had a 7 foot draft boat come in the other day.  Now, what to do?  All the marinas are closed and besides, they were too shallow last year….  We tied up on the pier and contemplated staying there, but the pilings were pretty rotten and any boat wake in the channel would smash me against the steel underneath.
One option I had been trying all day was the Bayview Yacht Club.  This is a big name club and had come recommended, but when you call their number, you are given 9 options and none of the ones that I would imagine getting me to the dock were answering.  Out of desperation, I called the bartender (option one) and bingo! We are saved.   They tell me to come on down and stay for free!  We carefully maneuver to the dock because the charts say I should be in about 3 feet, but it is better than 12 all the way in.  What a relief!    But it gets even better.  This is a first class facility with great accommodations and welcoming people.  Thea and I meet the General Manager in an attempt to exchange burgees (they are out of them, but will be sending me one) and he generously says we can stay as long as we like.  It is really a shame we have to leave in the morning because this is a great place.  Lots of very fast sailboats and a very professional staff.  Most of their members are down in Chicago for the Mac Race, but I meet the Vice Commodore and he is even more effusive than the GM.  The only bad part is this is where Frazer is getting off the boat.  Talk about great crew!  He never refused a request and was always engaged (except in the morning when he remind me so much of Anders as a small nuclear warhead are just about what it takes to get them up and going).  I of course have known Frazer all his life and he is more like a nephew to me than anything.  I think this trip really cemented our relationship, which will clearly last my lifetime and I know he will be a willing crew whenever he can manage the time.  I know he is more than welcome!  One additional comment is how ready he is for graduate school.  He begins his Ph.D. program this fall and I am excited about his prospects.  Most people who enter these programs do not complete them, but I am fully confident that he has the “right stuff.”
We eat dinner and Frazer gets a cab around 10 for a 21 hour ride to Duluth.  We load as many goodies as we can persuade him to take, but the real concern is if he will have enough books to take him all the way home because I don’t think I want to see how distressed he might become without something to read.
July 18
Bayview to Leamington, Ontario.  We left around 9:30 after fooling with the pumpout machine.  Don’t really know if it worked all that well, but we sure tried.   Just followed the river down to Lake Erie through Detroit and the industrial sector.  Lots of closed factories and it is sobering.    Lake is good to see and we head east after buoy number 8.  Nice sail and arrival in Leamington.  Very nice marina with beautiful flower baskets and a lake walk.  We walk toward town, but it further than we thought.  Will have to take the bike out tomorrow for bread and misc stuff for the boat.  The Waterfront restaurant was a pleasant surprise with reasonable prices and excellent food.  Perch is the catch of the day around here and it is great.  I have not had perch since I was a child In Kewaunee and it brings back lots of memories.  Did my laundry as Bob and Thea sacked out (they left the laundry open for me just for asking).  Great place.
July 19
Leamington to Put-In-Bay.   Went to Canadian Tire Company and really scored in terms of the stuff needed for the motor and boat.  Even had some small funnels so I don’t spill antifreeze when I put in the regulator one cup or so every morning.  Also found the tent pole needed for the bimini.  A great bakery here as well.   Another nice motor sail.  Wouldn’t have needed the motor, but we wanted to get there early enough to see the sights.  Did learn how it sounds to get a huge clump of seaweed caught in the prop as this happened at least three times on the way….   Went up the Perry Memorial and it is highly recommended as your first stop after getting off the boat.  It gives a great orientation to the island and the view is incredible.  We moored in just about the same place as last year.  Had to pay this time around as the season is in full swing, but it was only $30 and that included unlimited ferry service from the boat to the dock.  Got to visit the yacht club this time around and they were having a huge junior regatta with about 167 kids racing.  This is a really dedicated club to junior racing and they host for over 2 months each summer.  Got a promise for a burgee exchange, but didn’t have one with us, so will do it early in the morning.  Great sunset and am looking forward to the regatta at 8 in the morning.  And by the way, their yacht club began one year before ours!
July 20
Put-In-Bay to Rondeau Bay.  Left late because we wanted to see the beginning of the race and I had to make the burgee deal.  Turns out I am out of burgees, so I was going to get their address and mail them one with an self addressed envelope, but they gave me one on trust.  They launch about 4-5 boats a minute (it is that organized).  Filled up with fuel and set out for our destination with almost a casual attitude and it is 10:00.   Around noon, with the wind and waves building, we still feel confident, but around 4:00 it is apparent we won’t arrive till about dark and the wind and waves are building.  Around, 7:00, it is apparent we won’t make it till after dark and the waves are 4-6 with 3 second intervals.  We now have to steer for breaking waves.  Around 9:00, Bob notices the front anchor hatch is open and we have a swimming pool up front!  The latch has to be securely fastened and we think it was not.  We have a double reef and with a patch of headsail and that is only to stabilize the boat.  We are making about a half mile drift for every mile forward.    We finally, finally arrive at the marina around 11:30 and are exhausted.  Only to discover the boat was not designed to have the anchor hatch filled with water and the vee birth is wet!!!!  Take everything out and hang it, but it is too tired out and we fall into our beds for a well deserved sleep.  We all have bruises and I got a pretty good hit on the arm from the boom as it hit me on one of the trip on deck. Ouch!  No supper tonight because we just don’t have the energy.
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July21
This is going to be our down day as the lake and winds are still against us and none of us feels like taking another beating like yesterday.  Besides, we find there are GALLONS of water in the forward cubby where the sails are and the vee birth cushions have so much water in them that you can wring it out.  So, it is to the driers and we fly four sails off the bow to dry them.  Looks pretty silly, but it works.  Turns out that even the space ahead of the water tank is full of water, so the survival suits all have to come out and dry as well.  All this goes well into the afternoon, but we still get time to walk about town.  Not much here, but the local restraint is highly recommended, which is where we eat.  Recommendations are accurate and we recommend it as well.   The price for staying is the highest yet ($60+) and pumpouts are an additional $15.   Meet a nice couple of ex-sailors who are almost 80 and have purchased a huge power boat to do the Lake/river circumnavigation.   There boat is impressive, but I can’t get over how much I would never want one!  We have decided to get up at 6 tomorrow and will leave by 7:00 at the latest, but I am worried about the forecast.  I put the Bimini up today with the new tent pole and it works much better (I also sewed extensions on each side so it now fits the zippers on the dodger).  We had lots of rain to test it and while you still get stuff blowing in from the sides, it does keep you dry and protects the general area around the cabin entry, which dramatically extends the “living space” during rainy weather.     I think Thea is going to “prevail upon” Bob to get a dodger when they get back to their boat.  One little event I forgot to mention on our way to Rondeau Bay was just a little scary.  Bob and I tend to prefer “going over the side” as a trip to the head is pretty much a painful experience in the seas we were in.  Well, I was on the wheel and Bob was doing his duty, when I heard a “yelp!”  Looked over to see Bob looking back at me hanging on to the outside of the stainless structure!  Grabbed his shirt in a death grip, but he really was well in control and there was no problem.  However, it did wake us up!
July 22,
Arggh!  The forecast is worse than I could have imagined with bad winds, lots of rain and thunderstorm cells right in our way.  We reluctantly decide to stay put, but no one is happy about the decision.  We go back to bed and I sleep at least 4 more hours!  (must have been really tired and didn’t sleep well last night as weather went through).   Bob and Thea are up way before me and by the time I drag my sorry butt out of bed, they have been to the grocery store and have gotten internet.  We go for a nice walk between rain showers out to the pier, walking through flocks of Sea Gulls, totaling probably over a thousand.   Water feels cold at first, but is nice wading as you get acclimated.  Interesting thing about the pier is there is NO Seagull poop on the walkway, which confirms what I thought I saw coming in…. namely  that the breakers were going over the pier!  The boat is pretty much dried out by the end of the day, with the exception of one of the vee birth cushions, which we will leave out of its cover for another day at least.  I tightened the bolts along the bottom of the cabin bulkhead  (the head bulkhead), which had come lose due to working and the fact I need to replace a portion of that plywood at least upon my return.  Thought I had the wood with me, but I must have left it… or used it on something else along the way.   Bob thought it would be a good idea to check the transmission fluid after supper and that turned into a chore as the dipstick/fillplug is on the starboard side.  This means you have to reach in over the transmission from the port side lazzarette and that is something I cannot do these days.  That is why I had the mechanic check it in Northport, but we are both a little suspicious of that guys work.  Fluid levels was perfect, but by the time Bob got out of the lazzarette…. His back was telling him how much it did not appreciate what he had been doing of late, which left him laying on cockpit cushions on top of a picnic table while Thea massaged and iced his back.  Ouch.   Bob says it began before he went into the hole, but my tenure in that particular place in the past leads me to believe that it is probably a good substitute for Dante’s Sixth Circle of Hell, so while he thinks otherwise, I blame the hole!  Cleaned the cockpit after putting everything back in and went to bed listening to folks partying on the dock to late in the night.   Did fix the teak decorative board on the stern lazzarette hatch cover and found out for certain that the Ryobi charger took a fatal spike when the inverter blew.  Will have to find one quick as I soon will have no power tools!  And then what to do?
July23
Rondeau Bay to Presque Isle (Erie, PA).   Left around 6:45, but it is a rocky start as neither the chart plotter or the radar will turn on.  This has been an off and on problem (especially the chart plotter) that I thought was a bad connection of the mounting shoe of the plotter.  I sanded the contacts the other day after it was acting up and it immediately started working, which led me to believe I knew the problem and had solved it.  However, this time the contacts are clean and the radar is down….   So, about a mile out from the pier, we stopped the boat and I dug into the stern lazzarette to take a look at the electrical block mounted there.  Before I even touched it…. Everything started working, so I closed things up and off we went only to have it happen again in five minutes.  This time I resolve to clean the connectors on the block, but before that we have to get to the sandpaper, which of course is buried under a mound of stuff we had removed from the vee birth to let it dry.  The surprise on the block was the hold down screw was very loose, with some corrosion on the wire fittings as well.  Some sanding, tightening, spraying with electrical contact cleaner and everything is now working great, which is a real relief seeing (or rather “not seeing”) as we are in fog and will be entering the main shipping lanes of Lake Erie on this leg!
The weather forecast and the winds last night were all from the West.  The weather radio reports that all winds on the lake are currently from the NW or West running 5-10, so that of course means we are experiencing winds from the NE and they are light and variable!  Arggh again!   About an hour later, they start moving to the south and west, and picking up which translates into nice beam runs that are currently moving directly behind the boat.  Don’t really like them on the rear as the jib tends to stall and then flop, but so it goes.   We are doing an 80+ nautical mile leg today as the weather tomorrow sounds threatening.  We also don’t want to go to Ashtabula, which was our initial goal as water spouts have been spotted off the shore with a very slow moving thunderstorm with much cloud to ground lightening…..  We will play it safe and go for the long haul today.
Bob’s back is still acting up and he is moving slowly, but still right in there of course.  Not a lot of work to do except keep watch of big boats and skitter along at about 7 kts.  Two lakers so far that we saw a long way off on the radar.  One came within a mile (the Algoma), so we got pictures.
It is now about 4:00 and we are down to the jib doing 7.5 kts in a following sea that is quickly building with 3 footers pushing us along.  Chart says four more hours…. Before we reach the harbor.  Bright and sunny with 15-20 knots true from the starboard quarter.  Rock and Roll!
Well, it is 10:08.  We arrived at Presq Isle just as the sun was going down, but it was at least a couple of miles to the Erie Yacht Club, where we had a reciprocity dock.  Problem is it was after dark when we got there and all the staff had gone home.  There was a HUGE ocean liner parked where we thought were supposed to go…. It had to be at least 200 feet long and I think my mast may be taller than he is but I am not sure.  We parked at the gas dock and was about to settle in when a yacht went by and said the transient docks were further in and we should follow him.  I asked whether there was enough water and he was certain it was no problem….  Guess what?  We went aground about 10 feet from the dock.  Backed off and parked next to a trawler in a spot we suspect is free, but it is too dark to really worry at this point.
This was a 89 nautical mile day, which translates into 107 statute miles, over 15 hours.  We are tired, but not nearly as tired as the day battling against the waves going to Rondeau Bay.   Pasta and wine tonight!

July25
Erie to Port Colburn.   Had to wait for the gas dock to open as we were at about ½ tank.  Found out the humongous boat was a local and is actually 130 feet long.  It takes 8800 gallons of fuel and does not go out much at all.  I am thinking it is some kind of “hood ornament” for the local rich guy.  There is a breeze in the harbor and forecast is a high wind warning (20-30 kts).  We are battened down and are only flying the jib making 7kts.  Seas are running about 1 foot right know, but the prediction is they will  build.  “Auto” already cannot handle the following sea…   Thea managed to get a shower this morning and I am regretting not following her lead on this.  Bob’s back is still sore, but he is getting around better today.  One point of concern is the engine took more anti-freeze than I expected this morning.  It was a long haul yesterday, so I am going to rack it up to that at this point.  Oil is still a little over the mark, so we are doing well in that area.  If the wind holds and it certainly looks like it will, we won’t tack at all today.
Well, things can certainly change over 10 hours!  We started off with a wind from the South that did gradually build, but there were light seas due to the lack of fetch.  It stayed this way till about noon, when radar showed some nasty stuff coming at us pretty quickly.  We battened down and watched two, different storms track on both sides of us within a mile!  Actually there was more than two, but they followed the same tracks and we had lightning on both sides, but not a strike within our mile radius.  Whew!  Then, we are sitting on deck in sunshine with the winds lightening and all of the sudden the jib backed….  While we were wondering  what that was all about… we got hit with 30+ winds from the West that backed down to the 20s and stayed there for the rest of the way!   Had a fraction of the jib up and were moving at 7+ kts.  Seas built to high 4s with some almost 6s helping us on our way.  When we neared Port Colborne, we heard a freighter on the radio say he wasn’t going in the entrance until the winds died, but we had no trouble other than getting knocked around a bit.  I thought that was the end of it, but when we got to the slip that was assigned to us, we discovered it was right next to a large Clorox bottle that left little room for error.  The winds were really pushing me toward the boat and I aborted just in time to back out and miss the stern.  Told the dock I wanted to take the slip to the leeward of the Clorox bottle and they said ok.  Still had trouble with the wind on that approach, but with the help of Leonard and  Lynnea (they just arrived, which happily put the two dock attendants in a secondary position), we were able to tuck in safe-and-sound).   This was a happy meeting of our two crews and we all sat down for wine, beer and chips to relax.  Leonard and Lynnea had take a room in a local hotel that had an “English cuisine.”   We decide to eat there after a run to get groceries and clean the boat a bit.  The trip to the hotel was a timely one as we had been watching a storm front fly in from the lake and it looked like it had a big gift for us….   Just stepped into the hotel as the rain started.  And then it rained hard for the time we ate!  Gutters were half filled and the wind blew while we ate English food.    Leonard decided that he “wouldn’t melt” and ran for the car so we only had to dash about 25’ to the car.  It was raining hard enough when we had to make the trek from the marina office to the boat to ensure we would be drying our weather gear.  Upon arrival, I found rain had blown into the cabin about 4 feet through the small slits in the top hatch board!  But, the rest of the boat was dry and it was time for bed.  The wind howled off and on all night along with rain and it was great to be tucked in.
July26
Crew change and the Welland.  It is that time again when good friends are leaving and good friends are coming aboard.  Bob and Thea… what to say about them?  You simply cannot find better friendship and support.  You’re going to laugh a lot as their view of the world is with that sparkle of enjoyment that allows them to enjoy even the most challenging circumstances (and last year proved that!).  Bob will study every technical manual aboard and “ask” questions that provoke you to get up off your butt and be interested as well.  Thea will see things that I would never see by myself, from a point of view that is both optimistic and excited with new people and places.  Pretty cool friends if I do say so myself.
Now comes the “A” team of the trip: Leonard and Lynnea.  I think they have more experience and skill in each of their little fingers than the vast majority of folks puttering around calling themselves “Captain.”  Couple that with a wanderlust that moves them to explore new places and venues and again I have to say I have been the luckiest person on this trip.   I have heard tales of other trips with crews that led to horror stories to be told over libations, but my experience on the trip West and East has been one of great companions.  Memories are in the end just about the only thing you have and I am one “happy camper!”
We left Port Colborne (Colberg, Port Colborne, and Colborne are all on this leg and it does confuse things) about 7:45 after our goodbyes to the Platts.  Winds are still quite high from the east and they have just cancelled a big fishing tournament at this marina due to high winds and waves.  They are going to draw the prizes out of a hat, which must be a letdown for everyone.   But the beer is already out on the fishing boats and it looks like they will make the best of it.  I am guessing that most of them (if they had gone out) would be coming back with empty bellies and a “green” tinge as we can see the waves breaking over the seawall.
I almost hate to write this because it seems so unfair to Bob and Thea, who braved the western trek.  Going west in the Welland Canal is clearly where all the horror stories come from (we have our own from last year).  Going east is not a piece of cake as you still have to keep on your toes much more than in the smaller canals, but it is so easy compared to westbound as to make it seem easy.  While we did have to compensate for current and wind with the throttle about 1/3 speed in reverse on several locks, it was no great wrestling match where any misstep had huge consequences!   Not that the Welland was going to let us off scott free… Oh no!  Just before lock 3, we had to wait for a freighter to pass and with the strong gusts still coming off lake Erie, we got out of position, which meant we had to tie up and wait for another slot between the freighters (at least 1.5 hours).  After finally getting through Lock 1, we were greeted by Lake Ontario by thunderstorms!  We could see these on radar as soon as we were able to fire it up (can’t run radar in the Welland), and they were headed right for us.  Got out into the big lake and battened down hatches to see the brunt of the storm/s track landward from us with lots of lighting.  Had a couple of hits pretty close and we all huddled under the dodger with faithful “Auto” volunteering to take the fatal lightning bolt if one so chose to not make our day.  The motor into Port Dalhousie was otherwise uneventful and we were able to tie up on the break wall with several other boats (the Moody right behind us had a taller mast, which was one of my attractions to that particular part of the wall).  There was power on the break wall, which was not there last year, so they have obviously decided to expand options.  This appears to be a good idea as this port is definitely a party town with band going late into Sunday night and lots of folks walking the piers.  We had a great supper and a relaxing evening watching the people and thinking about Toronto as our destination for tomorrow.
July27
Port Dalhouise to Toronto.  Got up around 6:30-7:00 and left at 7:45.  No one showed to collect any fees and there was no booth or radio contacts, so this was a free night.   Shut down the motor immediately after leaving the pier, with a nice sail to Toronto.  Winds were ok, but a bit variable, so we decide to motor in the West Channel.  Turns out this was a good idea as the downtown airport is right on the channel and they even have buoys keeping you out of the approach paths.  Plus, there is a ferry between the mainland and the airport on the island that has absolute priority (according to a large lighted sign that you cannot see until you are in the harbor).  This little bit of information is not on the charts and is not in the cruising books, so we made the wait a little bit as we puttered into the harbor.  Must say they were fine with this and waived back as we crossed their path, and then flew across right behind us.  We decided to stay on the harbor side and a marina that really is downtown so we could make the most of our walkabout opportunities (Marina Quay West).  As usual, they gave us a slip that was the furthest out possible from the washrooms (this is normal as the best slips go to the regulars).  Plus, there was a lot of surge in this marina, which had us jerking on the dock lines till pretty late in the night due to harbor traffic and some other gremlin we could not quite figure out.
Lynnea and Leonard have asked me several times what I want to do while in Toronto and my only answer was to 1. Actually get there as this is the place I bought the Mighty Quinn and it has a lot of good memories for both Mary and I; and 2. Look up Vaughan Quinn if possible.   I wanted very much to visit Toronto last year, but the brutal weather took all the slack out of the Ontario leg.  Vaughan was the secondary goal as I had not been able to track him for the last 3-4 years.  We had been sending him 5# bags of coffee at the holidays, but we were told his address was no longer good.  A call to the Catholic Dioceses in Toronto yielded not information as they told me they had no current record of a priest with that name (which was quite worrisome).    I had lost his sister, Martha’s contact information, so that avenue was closed as well.   What great news to discover after some persistence (it took three phone transfers before someone was able to get me info), that my good friend was alive, well, and in town!  We arranged to meet tomorrow for dinner and a visit to the Mighty Quinn.
With that good news, we set out to explore the town on an initial walk about.  We walked the waterfront and even discovered the special restaurant Mary and I so much liked (but could not remember the name of).  Turns out they re-named the place from La Marche to Richtree, so maybe our memories were not so bad after all.  We tried to go up the CN Tower, but there was a 1.5 hour wait to get into line and that does not sit well with any of us.  We also found Genco Marine, which is where I bought the dodger and I tried to see “Nat,” who is the guy behind the “Natty Dodger,” but he does not work at that location.  Their prices for gear are surprisingly high, which makes the price of the dodger even more puzzling.  I recall he only charged me $50 to put in a new lexan windscreen this spring, which seems very reasonable.  So, I cannot recommend their gear, but heartily endorse their canvas!
We also found a beer store and picked up the local brew for a test tonight with an excellent dinner of fish, salad and something else very good that looks like a kind of rice (I am the last one to ask about these things, except I know what I like and this was great).  We are tired from all the walking and are looking forward to a good night’s sleep (despite the surge).
July28
Toronto.  I felt it might be a good idea to brief Leonard and Lynnea on Vaughan Quinn….  as he is certainly an interesting person.   I told them a bit about his history and how I got the Mighty Quinn, but even as I tell people about him… it seems a bit unreal to me as well.  I mean, how do you say you bought your boat from a priest who went to Detroit and squatted in a building that he eventually turned into a 400 bed ward for people with drug and alcohol problems?  What do you say about a guy who had 5 fire trucks that he used to raise money, pick up drunks, and “obtain” food?  Or how about the fact he played goalie (in a dress and wig) for the “Flying Fathers” hockey team that played all of the U.S. and Canada?  Or that he Captained the Mighty Quinn in 1985 when it won the Chicago-Mac Race, when many boats were dismasted and one even sank?  Or that he used the Mighty Quinn for part of his rehabilitation program and there is a CBC film about him and the boat?  And that is just the beginning….  So, I tried and they looked at me even a bit stranger than usual.  But I tried.
We first headed over to the CN tower, getting there early with very little waiting.  The view is magnificent and our timing was excellent as the haze started coming in as we left.  Took lots of pictures and spent considerable time orienting.   Even had coffee in the restaurant so we could see the side of the city where the Mighty Quinn used to be berthed (Outer Marina).   Highly recommend this as a to do in Toronto and probably right away as it really orients you to the city.  We had lunch as an English Pub and then went to the Art Gallery, which was again really worth seeing.  I think I liked the work on the 5th floor best, but there was a very good (and somewhat disturbing) photo/sculpture/etc. presentation of a woman’s work that illustrated the life of her mother who had been experimented on with drugs by the CIA in the1960s that is definitely worth seeing.   The Inuit and other native artwork were excellent as well. Just about worn out by all the walking, looking and standing, so we worked our way back to the marina through Chinatown (which is a real Chinatown), stopping to shop at a Sobey’s , which has great food.  Then on the boat for some rest and wait for Vaughan to call.  Only to discover my phone decided on its own to not take calls, or send them for that matter from the boat even though it worked fine the day before!  Found a spot about 10’ long on the dock where if I stood in a certain direction, it would work (sometimes).  Turns out he had been calling and leaving messages all day!  Don’t you just love it?  Called him back and agreed to meet him at the Marina drive, where I finagled a parking pass for him as they charge a minimum of $10 to park just about anywhere in this town.
Vaughn showed up and was quite emotional.  Turns out he had not been on a keel boat since stepping off the Mighty Quinn when I sailed her out of Toronto all those years ago!  And this boat of course remains  a very special part of his life.   He was almost hopping up and down as he saw the boat and couldn’t stop taking pictures, while moving from subject to subject so fast that I really could not keep up with my end of the conversation.  But then, that is just how I remember him!   He came on board with his red/green-port/starboard socks, pants and shirt with Mighty Quinn logos sewn in and promptly charmed the socks of Leonard and Lynnea!   We showed him a few of the upgrades, but it is clear what he wanted/needed most was to re-connect with the boat and his past.  So the stories began and I could see Leonard and Lynnea’s faces as it began to dawn on them that I had actually understated what I had told them about this guy!  We spent the next 4 hours together as he took us to dinner (his treat and don’t even think we had a chance to argue about that!).  Then to his house where he gave me the lifebuoy ring for the Mighty Quinn and showed us some of the prizes/memorabilia from his days as a crazy goalie for the Flying Fathers as well as particular moments on the Mighty Quinn.    I made sure to get all sorts of contact information from him as well as his sister (Martha) who lives in Montreal.  I also got a hard promise from him to visit and sail on the boat in Lake Champlain  (Martha loves the boat as well and I know she can make him come as she is the only person I know of outside of his religious order that he truly listens to and follows orders from).  Back to the boat around 11:30 and quickly to bed as we will be up at 6:00 to head out.
July29
Toronto to Cobourg.  Up at 6:00 to shower, get the boat ready, and then to the pumpout.  This is a coin operated one and works quite well.  We then did the “gyro orientation” I have wanted to do for some time regarding the autopilot.   No wind and waves in the harbor made this easy, and what a difference it has made in the autopilot.  Wish I had a chance early on to do this and truth is I probably did, but when you don’t need it you forget.  We motored out of the harbor and picked up some light winds from the NW.  Trouble is no forecast on Erie or Ontario has NW winds.   They are supposed to be 10-15 from the SW.  They did get the rain right as it has been off and on all day.  Rain brings some wind and in between we have to rely on the iron jib.
Leonard has scoped out the Murray Canal that goes between Brighton and Trenton that would allow us to work back into the Thousand Islands for our last days on the lake.  Don’t know if we can make it as the dredged depth is supposed to be 7’.  Don’t know if there are bridges either, but we will check on this in Cobourg tonight.  Cobourg of course is the pretty little town that everyone has fond memories of.  There is supposed to be a Tall Ships visit coming this weekend (yes, we miss everything by a plus or minus two days it seems).  Hopefully, some of the crowd is already there.  We shall see.
July30
Cobourg thru Murray Canal to Quinte Point in Big Bay.  Well, this would be a bad place to practice your navigation skills in terms of plotting by depth!  The Murray Canal was at least 12 feet and usually over 16.  The succeeding bays are at least 10 feet deeper than on the chart and there is no common divisor.  We had a great spinnaker run down the lake right up to Presquille Bay and even then it was a beam reach.   The spinnaker sock really makes this sail manageable, but there are some tricks when flying it without the tacker.  Have to remember I will need blocks forward to free-fly it and when you move it from one side to the other with the tacker on, it will require that you make sure you unwind the spinnaker halyard from the forestay.   Finally took down the sails to run the canal, which was well maintained, with some weeds but no problem at all.   Sails up in the Bay of Quinte, with a nice sail through the day to the small bay after the point.  Good anchorage, but there were mosquitoes!  I went for my first swim and it was quite warm.  The boat looks good from the water, but it did get come scum in the Toronto harbor.  There was a six week garbage strike in Toronto and I think there was more refuse in the water than I recall.  I have been told this day was quite unique as it had not rained!  Hmmm.   Hope I am bring dry weather East!  Another great meal of fresh salmon, with salad and all the fixings.   Think (know) I am gaining weight on this leg of the trip!
July31
Quinte Point to Picton.   A bit of a lazy start as we do not have far to go today and there is little wind (7:30).  Drifted along for a time and then started the iron jib.  We had worked on the hoses around the heat exchanger as the towel I had placed under it was green with antifreeze.  One hose clamp was stripped and Leonard was able to replace it on his side (he was in the port lazzarette, while I reached in from on top of the fuel tank on the starboard)  We were able to make a good inspection that revealed the hoses were not leaking….   With the motor started and warmed up, it was obvious the leak is coming from the heat exchanger itself right under where the mechanic attached it to the engine.  At this point, we think there is either a crack in the casing of the exchanger or a small hole.  Either could be from installing the exchanger without a pad directly to the engine and/or tightening it too much.  In either case, this is a problem I will be discussing with Northport Boatyard as this looks like strike three (1. Did not bleed the fuel filter.  2. Did not fill the antifreeze in the recommended manner that eliminates the “bubble” problem I expressly raised with them.  3. Damaged the new heat exchanger through faulty installation.).    The other option of course is a faulty exchanger, but what are the odds the fault is right under where the mechanic tightened it down to the engine see as there are no welds or seams in this area?   We discussed removing the exchanger and patching it right now with epoxy and decided not to as relieving pressure from the system by listening the radiator cap stopped the leak.  Will try this today and perhaps for the next couple days to see how it works.  By that time, we will be in Oswego with the mast unstopped and can avail ourselves of all the options of that area (as well as stay on the wall above the first Oswego Canal Lock for free).  Hopefully, it will all work and I won’t have to get into this until I am on my mooring at LCYC!  I did call Oswego Marina to reserve a mast unstopping for Monday morning to discover the marina was sold….  This is not good as the new owners may have taken my mast support, which I carefully stowed under the owner’s direction for my return.  Just in case the worst happens, I have contacted Wes and Mary so she can get a battery charger for the Ryobi tools in case I need to build a new forward stand.
We almost completely sailed into Picton, taking down the sails just inside the harbor, which is smaller than the chart suggests.  While both the chart and books say there is anchorage areas, these are now gone as moorings have been installed and there is no room what-so-ever.   Radioed the Prince Edward Yacht Club and was able to grab the very last mooring  for $15, which is worth the access to club (showers, head, bar).   A nice walk about town to stretch the legs and check things out reveals an interesting location.  Firstly, there are almost now “show boats” here, with a distinctly older cast to the many, many boats docked and moored.  The ratio of power to sail is definitely skewed to sail.  I suspect we have discovered a community of working class sailors!    PEYC is a bit run down, but it is a working members club located on a tightly packed patch of land that cannot be expanded due to the rock cliff that is probably 50 feet high.  Folks are welcoming and helpful, and clearly are enjoying their club.  We have the run of the club including internet.  The bar has a staff member, but also has an “honor” system with an open fridge and drop box after hours.  Pretty neat.  Showers are good as well and the heads are not locked even though the club is located within the town.    Can you tell I like this place?  One thing is the docks are in need of repair, with the main docks being a little too narrow, which means they sway a lot when you walk down them.  This might be a self-correcting experience for club members who over-imbibe at the bar!
PEYC is hosting the Alden Boating Association this weekend (this is a long holiday weekend in Canada) and we will have to leave tomorrow.  We have two destinations that will depend on the weather forecast.  First is tucking into South Bay, which is well protected, but a 60 nautical haul to Oswego.  Second is to tuck into Main Duck Island, which is a 30 mile voyage.   Looks like winds from the South or hopefully SW, which will determine our decision.  Probably Main Duck in my thinking is 30 miles with winds on the nose is manageable, while 60 is tedious.  Another wonderful meal of aperitifs, soups, smoked fish and dessert and another couple pounds under the belt.  For some reason,  I am very, very tired tonight and have hit the hay while my  partners are busy reading and typing.   There is no wind, but it appears to be cool enough tonight to sleep well.  Tomorrow is forecast to be warm and sunny.
August1.
Picton to Main Duck Island.  Another beautiful day with winds working for us.  Sailed out of Prince Edward Yacht Club without the motor as the winds where favorable even in these tight quarters.  Winds aft or to the beam for most of the day.  We seem to catch most of the yachts we are around (maybe we don’t see the ones who are doing it to us) and I can report the sailors up here like it about as much as we do.  Motors will be turned on at the oddest times or different vectors will be chosen.  Regardless, it is a beautiful day for sailing!  Once we turned the corner onto the lake, the wind and waves picked up a little, but things were still good until about a couple miles out from Main Duck Island.  Had to turn the motor on to make it in, but this was necessary regardless as the charts have been notoriously wrong up her and the books warn about rocks and reefs.  There are two good anchoring spots on the island, but the one next to a government dock looked way to spooky to even try.  So, we chose the anchorage out with three other boats who clearly were together.  We were motoring around the anchorage and it was very different from the charts…. when a French Canadian in a 45 foot Beniteau started telling us where to anchor and then even offered to give us his spot!  We said not thanks, but he moved nevertheless and we did take the spot.   He then anchored out from us and then moved a bit further when his anchor did not hold.  This was an exceedingly gallant gesture as he knew we did not know the anchorage and he obviously did.  We thanked him and began to pump up the inflatable.   Well…. Leonard and Lynnea actually started inflating it.  They had the hand pump that came with the raft and it must have been intentionally designed to require maximum effort with minimum return as you can pump all day on the damn thing to the point where you are tired enough to have to change off without filling the raft.  My excuse for not being up with the “slaves” was I was trying to find the electric pump I had bought, but could not remember where I and stored it.    By the time they were about ½ way done and pretty worn out, I unearthed the pump hidden under the spotlights below my bunk!  Why it was here makes absolutely no sense, but that is where it ended up sometime last year.  Sensing an imminent slave uprising, I hurried forth with the pump and we were able to finish the bulk of the work and put the raft in the water before I was made to “walk the plank.”   Leonard helped me lower the raft over the side and promptly told me this was a silly way to do this when we have all the devices  readily available to safely and easily raise and lower the raft to and from the water.  He quickly attached a line to the stern and put a loop in the painter, which we are now able to attach to a spinnaker halyard and us a winch to do all the work!  Wish he had told this to me last year as I did pull a muscle in my back trying to put it in this time….   Lynnea and Leonard then told me they wondered why I wasn’t doing the same for the motor!  Especially since I have that wonderful structure on the back of the boat for the solar panels.  I promised I would rig one with my next outboard motor.   Why the next outboard?  Well, the current one I have is notoriously troublesome.  It starts easily (usually on the first pull), but then it is prone to give out at the most inconvenient times.  Usually when you are downwind and far from the boat, and most assuredly when approaching a dock or anything else that contains a “moment” when you really need it.  I used it only once last year when we were in the Apostle Islands in Lake Superior (actually, Anders used it).  This time around, it started on first pull, but refused to run unless you were constantly working the choke and even worse…. No coolant water is coming out….   This is clearly a “boat anchor.”   So, we nursed the motor up to the government dock and despite the charts and books descriptions, there is no way I could have made it into the island!  There was a boat at the dock with a short keel and he said folks simply sail in and anchor by getting their keels fixed in the mud.   I somewhat skeptically and I thought, politely said I would not be doing this, but the captain and his wife seemed a bit upset that we were questioning this strategy.
I nice walk around the dock area was all we did because Leonard had forgotten his shoes, but that was ok since we only needed to stretch our legs.  Nice old buildings at the landing, with a huge radio tower about ½ mile away.  They have a “two-story” toilet that might be of a “clivus” design.  Did not climb up, but suspect the view is pretty good.  Went back to the boat with one more piece of information from the folks at the dock… that the holding where we were is shale and that gives pause.  Figured the (now five) other yachts must know the area and we are right in the middle of them, so we probably have made a good decision, but we will set an anchor alarm tonight!
We got a wind change and rain during the night, with wind from the SW and gusting.  I know it woke me at least five times during the night and Lynnae and Leonard were up and about as well.  Nothing moved, but worrying about anchors is par for the course in cruising.
August 2
Main Duck Island to Oswego.  Woke up and were underway by 7:00 with clouds and wind even in the anchorage.  Once we got around the eastern tip of Main Duck, we began to get the full force of the SW to S winds that had blown all night with short, blocky waves and wind.  Immediately went for a second reef as the wind went more south and was gusting in the 20 knot range.  The wind speed gauge is unreadable in the cockpit, so the only way we can read winds speed is to go below to see it at the pilot station.  Navman and I will be discussing this once I am back as it seems to be a problem with most of the gauges I have from them and the wind guage has only gotten worse over the past month.
We now are getting heavy rain as Leonard is on the helm and water is streaming off his foul weather gear in a steady stream.  He is “tucked in” close to the starboard rail and we are beating to weather as close as possible, but the course is pretty much a bust as for every mile we are making south, we are doing about 2 miles east.  So we tack and fight a ways west and south and then tack again, looking for the best combination of wind and waves to make headway toward Oswego.   I am now “volunteered” to take the helm and unhappily, the wind and rain picks up even more, with my hood covering half my face to protect me, I become the one-eyed skipper.  My weather gear is first rate, but I am still getting wet as water runs down my arms despite the rubber seals.    The great news is the wind begins to clock more to the W-SW and we are able to head directly toward Oswego and even a bit West!   After the rain stops, we get even higher winds, which brings down the main and we are beating with about 80% jib while we still make better than 6 knots.   Things begin calming down as we approach Oswego and we “drift” past the lighthouse as I am unwilling to turn on the engine until we get into the harbor.  This is a big moment in the trip as it essentially represents the end of the lake voyaging, which I have been both looking forward to and regretting.   The anticipation comes from getting back home to Mary, who I have missed dearly, and getting back to all my friends up at LCYC.   The regret is all the wonderful times with great water, winds, and friends that I will treasure for the rest of my life.
We dock at the Oswego Marina and I immediately go looking for my mast supports, which are gone.  The Marina was sold since I was here more than a year ago and despite the promise from the previous owner and the clear writing on my stuff identifying ownership and return time, it is gone.  I have been worried about this for the last week, and asked Mary to pick up a new battery charger for my power tools (Wes and Beth met Mary for lunch in Ballston Spa).  The good news is there are a  lot of pieces from other boats for the taking and I found a unit that will work for me with a little work!
We are just beginning to take things apart, when Wes calls from their hotel to let us know they have arrived and will be down shortly to pitch in.  Down come the sails and all the rigging chores that come with stepping the mast, while we keep a eye out on the weather because we can see rain coming.  The sails and everything get stowed just before the wet hits us and we tuck in under the bimini while it pounds down around us.  Lynnea and Beth went to the grocery store during this time and get back just as the rain stops with both stores and pizza!  We enjoy pizza in cockpit as friends get re-acquainted and coordinate the crew change, which will happen tomorrow.   My “A” team will be leaving and I will certainly miss them.   Miss the skill.  Miss the food!   Miss the companionship.  I will say this yet again, I cannot imagine how lucky I have been over this entire two years of voyaging with excellent crew to share with.   I could have not done this alone and my friends have been there for that.  But most importantly, they have made this whole experience so much richer and worthwhile through their friendship and willingness to do whatever needs to be done.    If only Mary could be along… maybe I would never stop!
There is a couple in a 30 foot boat from Kingston, Ontario with their mast down at the dock planning to head south tomorrow.  They stopped by just as we were taking down sails and I was not able to talk, which made me feel like I had been short with them.  So, after supper and Wes and Beth had gone back to the hotel.  I went our foraging for some more parts for the mast support and stopped by their boat.  They are taking their time going south to Florida with a destination time of December.  He had sailed before, but she had not (new couple), and she was recovering from a stroke.  They related that they had waited at Main Duck Island for a weather window and the motored across as they didn’t like that “bouncy” stuff.  I can only guess what they will do when they have to go offshore….   One thing they revealed was that Main Duck Island was full of snakes!  They said they counted seven snakes sunning themselves on the first step going up to the two-story outhouse!!!!   For those of you who don’t know….  I DO NOT LIKE SNAKES!   When I told Lynnea, she just about wiggled out of her skin as she feels the same way!  Guess what?  I am never going back to that island!
August 3
Oswego to West end of Oneida Lake.   We get the mast down without any real problems and clearly the marina guy thought it was good, because he knocked a couple feet off the mast charge as we finished.  The mast is all secured, with lots of lines holding the stays out of our way for the trip through the canals.  Beth, Leonard and Lynnea say their farewells and lots of hugs go around as we formally make the transition.  Wes and I are now “the team” for the canals and we are off to a great start!  Once things are secure enough to leave for the gas dock, we move out only to find out the empty gas dock has too large a fill nozzle for our boat.  So, we have to go back and tuck in front  of the 30 footer to get fuel.  The 30 footer is stalled because the marina is out of gasoline and the fuel truck of course is due “any minute.”  We fill up with a grand total of 2.5 gallons of fuel, which is amazing since we last fueled about a week ago!  Seemed silly, but I wanted a full tank before hitting the canals.  We also had to add the required water to the cooling system, which is causing a bit more concern now as we have no sails to rely on if the motor goes south.   Wes is happy to be aboard as he has wanted to do the canals (he says on some else’s boat) and clearly is up for the show!  We are making excellent time up the Oswego Canal  (left at noon) compared to the last time as the current is only running 1-2 knots against us (it was more than twice that last time when Mary and I did this).   We get to the west end of Onieda Lake about 8:00 and tie up to the floating dock, which is virtually empty.  This is puzzling as this is the height of the season and I expected problems finding a spot.    Evidently, our observations that there is almost no traffic over the past day are true for the entire canal.   We eat the pizza left over from last night and retire from a 13 hour day with lots of sun to quickly put us to sleep.
August 4
Erie Canal to Illion.  Was worried about Lake Onieda, because Mary and I had such a bad time on it previously.  We had 4-5 foot waves with driving rain that stung in winds clocking around 30.  We were making an effective forward speed of 1 knot and the lake is about 22 miles across!   But, Wes and I had great motoring with calm winds that still gave us waves just under a foot.  We filled the cooling system and it took quite a bit, which has me worried.  We will be checking the temp regularly again today!  We stopped at Sylvan beach to pump out (we had not been able to reach the pump out in Oswego due to the 30 footer’s position on the dock) and to make a quick stop at the store for milk and sugar as the milk had gone bad and Wes likes sugar in his coffee.   Coffee of course is a MUST, so we don’t fool around here, which means a ½ mile walk into to town, but the weather is great and it is good to stretch the legs.  Back on the boat for more miles and locks.  Then we have trouble!  The engine overheats in a lock and we limp out to shut down and re-fill.  It overheats again in just a half mile and we anchor this time to fill.  I check the heat exchanger and it is clearly leaking a LOT more than when Leonard and I had looked at it.  Overheats again and this time after anchoring, I get enough water in it to get past the “air bubble” and we move on to our destination (Harbor at Frankfort).   This harbor according to our charts and books and brochures has 14 feet of water, but I am leery as we head off the canal about 2 miles to the harbor. Good thing because about ½ way in we go aground!  We get off and move over only to go aground again!  After five groundings…. We are back out in the canal.  If you don’t know by now….  I hate going aground!!!!  But I can’t get worked up this time as I am too worried about the cooling system.
We head down to Illion, which is where Mary and I stayed last time around.  This is a weird place as it is a combination sea wall with hook-ups and fuel, and it is an RV park with parking on the tar, and it is a boat launch for folks fishing.   Wes is amazed that anyone would “camp” like these RVs, which are parked about 20 feet apart (so am I).  He got some pictures just to prove we are not kidding about this.  One RV had a slide down panel on the side that revealed a huge flat screen television, with 4-6 people sitting around watching a movie.
Electrical hook-up was exciting here as I got bit by a hornet right between the eyes (there was a nest in the hook-up box).    Good news is while the hurt like crazy, I usually don’t react at all from stings or bites so no harm.
One feel around the heat exchanger showed the problem was much worse and I had no other option than to try and fix it here and now.  But first a comment about Wes.  He has been a real trooper about all of this and that has helped a lot.  If I need the anchor dropped or raised or dropped again, he is there and willing.  As I worry about the heat exchanger, his optimism helps me keep from being totally bummed out.  He is convinced that whatever it is we will get through it and at this point in time I certainly hope he is right!   Lenoard and I talked about getting the heat exchanger out and agreed it would be extremely difficult, but once I absolutely had to get it…. Things began to look better.  I went in from the starboard fuel tank side and was able to loosen the clamp holding the heat exchanger on.  When I did this, virtually all the water in the system came pouring out to the point that I began to think there must have been a heat exchanger to engine flush mounting.  I then got out the socket set and removed the hose clamps and hoses from the starboard side of the exchanger, which allowed me to twist it and see the mechanic at Northport Boatyard had not bothered to make a new mount for the larger heat exchanger and had simply clamped the new one down against the head of an bolt on the engine.  This bolt had initially punctured the exchanger (most certainly at the boat yard as it was leaking from the very beginning) and continued use widened the hole to the point where it looked like the how you put in the old beer cans with a “church key!”   The only thing keeping all the coolant from flowing right out was that he had left the old rubber packing that protected the old exchanger in and it had obstructed the flow.   This is not shoddy workmanship.  This is not bad workmanship.  This is malfeasance in that this was a yard certified mechanic whose work virtually guaranteed it would fail.  Do you think I a bit upset about this especially since Mary told me yesterday that they have sent me an additional bill of $170 for me hanging around the day I put the boat in and the had not even bled the fuel system????  At this point they owe me a new heat exchanger and some money back, AND and apology for doing such crappy work.
The problem now was there was one more hose to remove on the port side and I knew this was going to be a bear because I just cannot bend enough to reach it…..   Happy news is that that hose actually goes to the front of the engine, so I was able to take it off that end quite easily and extract the entire exchanger with pretty much no fuss!  What a relief!
Wes and I then discussed it and decided to both patch and clamp the hole.  I cut a rubber patch and fitted it over the hole after carefully covering the area with 5200.  I was going to use one clamp, but Wes insisted on two, which turned out to be just what we needed (I did not want to take the time to make a large enough second clamp out of two).   We  then snaked the exchanger and hose back in with Wes guiding me from the cabin side as that hose was easier to get out than in.  I then connected the other three hoses and we declared victory!   I won’t fill it until tomorrow morning to give the 5200 a chance to set up a bit.  I am also worried  about how to hang the exchanger, but for now have decided the heavy hoses themselves will probably do the job.
Now for a well deserved shower (days since the last one for me), a dinner of salmon and corn on the cob, a couple of beers (to re-hydrate of course) and to bed!
August 5
Illion to Amsterdam.   It rained a bit last night, which got us up to close hatches.  I also was restless as I was still worried about our fix and especially about just letting the exchanger hang on its hoses.  Figured that was a ticket to trouble, so the first thing I did was get one of the kitchen towels and make a nest for the exchanger to sit in on top of the old mount.  It looks good and I am quite relieved.  Now to pour water in the engine.  No leaks!   Now to start the engine and see what happens.  No leaks, but it quickly overheats, which means there is an airlock.  A couple more attempts and I finally get out the drill pump and fill the engine from the bottom, which of course is what I should have done in the first place.  Now there are no leaks and the engine temp sits right on “7” which is great!  Yahoo!  But let’s not get too cocky, so we watch the temp like hawks all day and there is almost no fluctuation.  I can relax a bit!
It is another beautiful day with some overcast, which helps a lot as the sun beating down gets pretty hot and tiring.   We do the 40 foot lock 17, which is pretty cool even if you have done it before.  Wes is pretty blown away by the size and the guillotine gate.    I don’t think he really believed it was going to be sitting over his head, raining on him as we went through, and I guess no one can go through that gate without wondering what would happen if that sucker came down!  Actually, you wouldn’t be wondering at all as you would be mush!  The rest of the day is spent motoring and locking through beautiful country, with long stretches of wild and quiet interspersed with Interstate 90 with trucks and cars honking and waving.  Cool.
We were told by the guy at Lock 12 that we should go to a bar/tavern for dinner tonight in Amsterdam.  Lock 11 guy tells us just as we are going through that the bar/tavern is actually right at Lock 12 and that if we want to eat there, we need to turn around and go back through the lock.  We decide to go on to Amsterdam as the book says there is an Italian place 4 block from the dock and who wants to go back through another lock?   Sigh.  We tie up at Amsterdam and a beautiful dock, only to discover the restraint has closed and all the good eating is miles away up the hill…..  But there is a Chinese place that looks/is seedy and as that is the only option other than traipsing back to the boat and starting supper late, we go in.   No one behind the counter speaks English, but we are able to point at things on the menu.  The food was ok, but there was LOTS of it, which was a shame because we could never eat that much and had to throw about ½ of it away (It was not appetizing enough to take back to reheat).
When we got back to the boat, the guy was there to take our money and give us a key for showers (very nice and hot, but there is only one shower for everyone and there were now about 5 boats tied up).
I also was extremely happy to discover we only needed to put in about a cup of water!  Wes says and I agree that this would be normal as we almost certainly did not get it completely topped off before.  What are relief.   A good night’s sleep ahead of me with no major worries to keep me awake!